One tranquil night in Takengon, I found myself sipping spicy ginger tea at a roadside cart, surrounded by a group of coffee farmers. Across from me sat a cheerful man with a youthful and vibrant energy, nursing his own tea as we staved off the night’s chill. Despite the language barrier, there was an unmistakable camaraderie in the air. The man invited me to visit his home the next day. Though a bit of mystery remained, I knew he was involved with coffee, so I accepted his invitation.
The next morning, clarity emerged. A visit to Aulia’s home, marked by a wrought iron gate adorned with brass coffee beans, revealed the man with the bright, unforgettable smile from the night before. He stood proudly in front of racks of fermentation tanks and bags of coffee cherries in the pre-fermentation stage of processing. It was clear that Aulia was a farmer dedicated to excellence.
Inside his home, we met his family. His wife served us the family favorite coffee, an anaerobic wet hull, along with homemade cheese biscuits. As we sipped and snacked, Aulia shared his passion for quality. He spoke of his desire to uphold his parents' goal of producing specialty coffee, a mission he continues with pride, honoring his parents who rest in generously flowered graves just inside the front gate.
Aulia’s journey into anaerobic fermentation began in 2017, sparked by online articles and refined through extensive experimentation. His signature process, a five-day fermentation, marries science and artistry, setting his coffee apart.
A tour of his greenhouses and drying facilities showcased his visible commitment to quality. The spotless interior of the greenhouse, lined with neat stacks of drying beds and adjustable windows to control airflow, was a testament to his meticulous approach. Aulia’s excitement about controlling fermentation confirmed that he was a farmer worth supporting and partnering with.
During a subsequent cupping session, Aulia’s coffees exceeded my expectations. His anaerobic and natural processes impressed me, proving that his dedication to quality was indeed paying off. Aulia's story is one of passion, innovation, and an unwavering commitment to excellence in every cup.
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Takengnon, Sumatra, Indonesia
One tranquil night in Takengon, as I sipped spicy ginger tea with local coffee farmers, I was invited by a spirited man named Aulia to visit his home the next day. The following morning, his identity as a dedicated coffee farmer became clear as I arrived at his home, marked by a wrought iron gate adorned with brass coffee beans. Inside, Aulia proudly showed me his meticulous fermentation tanks and pre-fermentation coffee cherries, reflecting his commitment to excellence. Over coffee and homemade cheese biscuits prepared by his wife, Aulia shared his passion for specialty coffee, honoring his late parents’ legacy. Since 2017, his expertise in anaerobic fermentation had become his signature, evidenced by a spotless greenhouse and precision in drying facilities. During a cupping session, his coffees lived up to my expectations, showcasing the artistry and science behind his craft.
Ateng can be traced back to a single lake: Aceh Tengah (AH-chay ten-GAH). Here, a dwarf tree was discovered that burst with an abundance of cherries. The farmers of the region shared and planted these cherries, leading to a new wave of trees. Fast forward to today, the Ateng variety remains elusive in most parts of the world, yet thrives beautifully across Indonesia. The remarkable size of its beans, comparable to the esteemed Pacamara variety, is simply awe-inspiring.
Tasting Notes: Blackberry, Cedar, Lemongrass, and Chocolate.
Brewing Tips: