Exploring the World of Maragesha: A Journey with Luis Aníbal Calderón

In the lush landscapes of Acevedo, Huila, Colombia, the farm Villa Betulia stands as a beacon of innovation and passion in the specialty coffee world. It’s here that Luis Aníbal Calderón, a second-generation coffee farmer, has devoted his life to the pursuit of exceptional coffee varieties. His story is one of resilience, exploration, and a relentless desire to push the boundaries of what coffee can be.

Luis’s journey began early. At the age of nine, he started working on his father's farm, learning the trade that would eventually become his life’s passion. But the road to success was far from smooth. In 2011, facing the threat of losing his farm due to financial difficulties, Luis found himself at a crossroads. The prices he was receiving for his coffee on the C market barely covered the costs of production, let alone the loan repayments. It was during this challenging period that Luis approached his local Specialty Coffee Association, a move that would change the course of his career.

The association offered Luis a lifeline, agreeing to pay slightly above the C market price—enough to sustain him but not enough to reward his hard work fully. However, this modest support sparked something in Luis. In 2012, he planted 5,000 Gesha trees, a risky investment that took three years to bear fruit. But when it did, it transformed Luis’s perspective on coffee farming. He became a man on a mission, determined to convert his entire farm to exotic coffee varieties.

Fast forward to today, and Villa Betulia is a thriving hub of specialty coffee production, known for its wide array of unique and exotic varieties. Among them is the Maragesha, a coffee that has captured the imagination of adventurous coffee drinkers around the world.

The Maragesha variety is a testament to Luis’s dedication to exploration and experimentation. This extraordinary coffee is the result of a natural mutation—a cross between the renowned Gesha and Maragogype varieties—discovered right on the farm. Recognizing its potential, Luis cultivated this rare variety with meticulous care, ensuring it developed a distinct presence that sets it apart from anything else on the market.

The journey of Maragesha doesn’t end in the field. The coffee undergoes a complex natural carbonic maceration process that begins with a six-day anaerobic fermentation. The cherries are then hand-sorted and floated to ensure only the best make it through. They are placed in Grainpro bags during fermentation to stabilize temperature and allow CO2 levels to rise. This intricate process brings out the delicate and complex flavors that Maragesha is known for—tropical fruits, strawberry, and effervescent floral notes that dance on the palate.

Our relationship with Luis Aníbal Calderón spans over five years, during which we’ve seen his farm grow into a powerhouse of innovation in the coffee industry. Luis’s dedication to his craft is inspiring, and his farm is more than just a place of work—it’s an arboretum of possibilities. Each coffee from Villa Betulia tells a story of discovery, passion, and resilience.

Luis’s success hasn’t come without its challenges. A few years ago, he was at the brink of financial collapse after a bad deal on a farm purchase. It was with the support of Felipe at CofiNet that Luis was able to turn things around. Felipe helped him pay off part of his debt, allowing Luis to repay him with coffee deliveries as he could. This act of kindness solidified a bond of loyalty and mutual respect that continues to this day.

As we look to the future, we’re excited to see where Luis’s journey will take him next. His new cupping lab is a symbol of how far he’s come, and the coffees he’s producing are some of the most exciting we’ve ever tasted. With every harvest, Luis continues to surprise and delight us with his creativity and commitment to excellence.

For those seeking an unparalleled coffee experience, Maragesha from Villa Betulia is a must-try. It’s more than just a cup of coffee—it’s a testament to what’s possible when passion, innovation, and a deep connection to the land come together.

Also in The Tattered Journal